Driving the Alaska Canada Highway

When we moved to Interior Alaska from Texas, we drove. Boy it was a long drive, but the best part of the drive was when we entered the Alaska Canada Highway. It had the prettiest views, the most remote locations on our entire route (and seriously no cell phone service ANYWHERE). This is the only way to drive to Alaska that does not include taking the ferry- which was not an option for us (and not something we were really interested in). 

Originally constructed during WW2, the Alaska Canada Highway was a dream first mentioned in the 1920’s. The idea of connecting the Northern United States to Alaska via Canada was novel (and unwanted for a long time by Canada). However, when Japan attacked Pearl Harbor a lot of concern was voiced regarding Alaska and then the further interior of both Canada and the United States. In February of 1942 both countries (Canada and the United States) came to an agreement to fund and build the road. It detailed that the USA would bear the full cost and most of the construction during the war, once the war was over the US would hand the Canadian portions back to Canada. 

Construction was started in March of 1942 with a total of 10,000 soldiers from the Army Corp of Engineers responsible for seeing this dream to fruition. It was initially marked as a supply route (though it was never actually used for this). They went about building the road using four main pushes and worked from one end to the other. While building, they left quite the mess around causing the road to be nicknamed “oil can highway” and ended up decimating an indigenous village and most of its residents. Six months after construction began crews met in the “middle” of the route and the route was completed in October of 1942 (shocking what a world war will do for construction). 

The road was initially completed simply for army vehicles to use. Standard vehicles were not able to drive the route until 1943 due to steep grades, no guard rails, and switchbacks (to name a few problems). In fact, in the spring/summer of 1943 a large portion of the route was unusable due to permafrost thawing causing the road to be destroyed. 

In April of 1946 the United States signed the land back over to Canada, along with all of the maintenance needed for the road. While this handover took place in 1946, the roads did not start changing/improving and being paved until the late 1950’s and 1960’s. Paving was done in spurts and there are still sections today where it is gravel. 

The Alaska Canada Highway has changed routes ever so slightly providing a safer route, shorter route, and improvement for driving conditions. This means that some of the mile markers are not correct (specifically once you reach Alaska) and that some of the older roads have been surpassed and are simply neighborhood roads (can you imagine?!). 

We spent a total of 4-5 days on the Alaska Canada Highway, and it is simply the most gorgeous route there is. The roads are really good and well maintained- until the last stretch of road, which does have the permafrost heaves and quite a lot of the gravel sections. A couple of important notes if you choose (or are made to) travel the Alaska Canada Highway-

  1. Grab the Milepost book. This was first published in 1949 (at only 72 pages) and has grown into the definitive mile by mile guidebook. It not only covers the route, but places to stay, things to do, gas stations, and other fun things. It is the biggest help from planning the trip to actually being on the road. There were a couple spots we stopped at because we read about them in the Milepost. It is almost 800 pages of information on every single aspect of the route and region. The Milepost can be purchased online or when you get to the route, but you can also grab free guidebooks at the entry point, and these are valuable as well! They tend to be a bit more condensed down but are still great to have. I referenced both throughout the trip. 
  2. Remember that you will not have any phone service (unless you have a starlink). The route is fairly straightforward (especially if you have the Milepost), but there is no phone service if you get stranded. When we head out of Alaska (if we do), I do think we will put our Starlink into some sort of travel mode just so that we have that in case of emergencies. Thankfully we didn’t need to worry about it too much and each hotel we stayed at had internet service so we could do what we needed. 
  3. The road itself is decent until the last stretch and the last stretch will either be great or terrible. I wanted to touch on this because the road varies from day to day. When we went through (mid-July), it wasn’t terrible. We think we were past the leveling efforts (they do this every year after thawing), the holes had been patched for the most part, and we didn’t have much traffic. However, that does not always dictate the condition of the road- it can vary wildly with traffic and weather. The road can also close due to accidents, wildfires, or damage. Another note- there are typically not “shoulders” to pull off to. You get as close to the side as you can (out of traffic), but then you are at the mercy of other vehicles to be able to move enough in order for you to do what you needed to do (was never more grateful for a blown tire early in the morning with only one other car on the road). 
  4. Stop, stop, stop! Make all the stops- enjoy the food, enjoy the scenery, and stop everywhere you even have the slightest desire too. I wish we had done a smidge more hiking, but we didn’t really have the travel days built in to do that. We did stop at the Liard Hot Springs, and it was the best little break (and the best priced hot springs). We stopped at a service/rv area for some bison burgers and a commemorative coin. We would pull over on the side of the road (for kids’ potty breaks really) and just admire the general beauty of the area. Untouched wilderness is something special. 
  5. If you are going to drive the Alaska Canada Highway, your final and most up to date resource is the Driving the AlCan group on Facebook. This is run and maintained by locals to the route, has a plethora of resources and files to cover everything you might need for the trip, and provides up to date information on any closures. Seriously this group is amazing.

Our travel from TX to AK was honestly pretty incredible and full of such beautiful site (even if it was loooooonnnnnnngggggggg). 

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A Cuppa Cosy Travels – Tucson, AZ

This year for Spring Break we decided to work our way through parts of Arizona. It’s not too far that we couldn’t drive and yet it was far enough that we felt we were in a completely different area (which…to be honest we needed). We started off in Tucson and headed all the way up to Williams and The Grand Canyon before dropping back down to home. It was such a nice trip and it had me wondering if Arizona is a secret oasis that none of us are talking about…or if I was just enamored with the different scenery, the multiple seasons we experienced (in just one week), and the incredible might of Mother Nature’s presence in Arizona. Who knows really. 

So, to start with we headed to Saguaro National Park. The Saguaro is the cactus we all think of when we think of cactus. They stand tall, they have arms, and the give the desert vibe that you picture with Arizona/Desert (it is not typically found in the California region of the desert). The Saguaro really only grows in certain locations (all below 3,000 ft) and the Sonoran Desert of Arizona is one of those locations. These absolute monsters of cacti can grow over 40 feet tall and live for a very long time (well over 150 years). They are slow growers, taking almost a decade to even grow to ½ a foot tall. The “arms” do not always grow, however if they do, they don’t tend to start to grow until 70-100 years old and they are grown to increase the fertility of the plant. The cactus itself grows both flowers and fruits and can store and incredibly large amount of water. Considered a keystone species, the actually growing location and process, as well as the impact on the wildlife around it is fascinating (no seriously- I found the way mother nature works and how everything ends up working together absolutely fascinating). 

The inside of the Saguaro is akin to a rib cage- though the ribs are similar to hardwood in the composition. They do have a prickly thorn outer covering- the spine. These can grow up to 3 inches long and do some damage. The flowers produced on a Saguaro are white and typically open after sunset and the fruit is a red, is typically ripe in June, and requires a pole to harvest due to how high up it tends to be. 

Within the Saguaro National Park, you drive to various stopping locations where you are able to get out and hike trails and see the variety of both Saguaro Cactus and many other variations of desert plants. We spent a good couple hours driving and walking through. There is almost 2 million Saguaro’s within the park, not to mention the wide wide variety of other cactus and plant life. Be careful of wildlife (though we didn’t see any while we were there). It’s truly incredible to see (which is a common theme for this trip overall). 

Our second day in the Tucson area was full of history- from completely different timelines. We started the day at The Titan Missile Museum – the only site of the three sites of the Intercontinental Ballistic Missile program still in existence and open to the public to tour.  And that tour is both for the work site and an entirely preserved Intercontinental Ballistic Museum (which we will now call ICBM because typing that out every time…whew). There are actually only two preserved launch sites in the world from the Cold War- the one in Arizona we visited and one in Russia. This was designed by the treaty. Both sites have dummy missiles and other measures to ensure that they are non-operational (and those measures are checked regularly by satellite). 

The Titan II was the largest ICBM ever in existence by the U.S. Air Force. It was massive- an absolute weapon of true destruction. Located at 3 separate sites (all spaced out by a certain number of miles and each with its own dedicated Silo and base), these missiles were operational for a total of 24 years. The big innovation of the Titan II was storable propellant, which allowed a faster launch time. 

First activated in 1963, the silo sight (Titan II Launch Complex 571-7) was manned 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The whole idea of this was not only for safety purposes, but also as a deterrent. Both sides had these weapons during the Cold War, and if both sides were continually at the ready to deploy them, then both sides wouldn’t…in theory. We booked the tour that was able to take us down into the silo to see both the bottom side (well more like middle- its massive) of the missile, as well as into the office where the soldiers would sit on shift and deploy the missile if the worst should happen. Please note- this tour they do an example deployment and it’s…something. We learned the measures that would be taken when a new crew came on shift- from the four phone calls that had to be made, the evasion tactics should the soldiers be attacked or followed. No soldier was allowed to be alone within the site due to the potential of spies. It truly was a secure site. We also (as I stated) were able to do a “launch” of a missile, seeing all the steps from start to finish, to see what lights on the various control panels would light up (they are all exactly as they were/would have been while active), and then hear the sounds. It was very enlightening. 

Once the silo stood down in 1982, work was started to try and turn it into a museum. This took a lot of work as the missile belonged to the Air Force, but if it was run as a museum, it would be local jurisdiction, not to even begin to mention the treaty between countries and the complicated relationships there. A lot of work was done to the missile in order to make it inoperable and provide assurances that it could not easily (or ever) be repaired and fired. The museum itself opened in 1986. 

I will be honest- I was a bit hesitant about heading to this museum- I just didn’t know much. I came away with a whole new level of respect and understanding and awe. I highly recommend visiting it as it’s one of those unique spots that pays homage to a very important part of our recent history. 

From the Cold War era, we headed even further back and visited Old Tucson. Let me say- this is an amusement park. It does have some historical value and it is often used as a movie set (there is a building dedicated to shows and movies that were shot there, several of which we all know of); I would actually say it is similar to Tombstone, except it doesn’t have the significance of the history, this is more movie than historical. I don’t know if that makes sense or not. Fun fact- Jersey Shore filmed at Old Tucson- the gender reveal wild west show for Mike Sorrentino’s newest child. Which the actors at Old Tucson talk about. 

Anyways, we spent an entire afternoon at the park, catching a gunfight show, a can-can girl dance show, a stagecoach ride, train ride, and more. We literally wandered through the entire park doing EVERYTHING (minus the carnival games). This felt a bit more relaxed than Tombstone- in that you’ll be sure to see a gunfight and the actors, but it isn’t a constant overwhelming event. We also attended the stunts show at the end of the day that the actors put on to teach how they pull of the stunts in the different shows and movies. Easily my favorite as the actors have a lot of fun with audience interaction. Highly recommend! 

Finally, on our way out the final morning we stopped into Biosphere 2. Biosphere 2 was built to demonstrate that closed ecological systems could work and thus move the concept of human life in outer space forward. It was built in the late 1980’s, and inhabited in 1991 for 2 years (as a closed environment with no outside involvement), and then a second time for 6 months. During it’s time, it was the subject of A LOT of discussion and controversy. I don’t quite know how to get into all of the nitty gritty as there is SO MUCH and I have a lot of feelings on it (some fascination, some hesitation, some upset). The organization that initially brought about Biosphere 2 ran into a lot of problems, some of which never were acknowledged, and it has now become a location of environmental research, rather than closed environment. Amidst the drama, it became a research facility, transferred to its current home run by the University of Arizona and turned into both a research facility and a museum. 

We really enjoyed our morning wandering through the different biospheres, learning not only of their purpose during the closed environment experiment, but also the purpose they serve now, and the research being conducted. I highly recommend stopping by this really unique piece of history and science research. 

That wrapped up our time in Tucson- a truly great stop for us! 

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A Cuppa Cosy Travels – Corpus Christi, TX

I don’t know if I should really write this post or not- we really went down to Corpus Christi to see my Sister-In-Law who lives there with her family. It was a lot of family time and not as much seeing all the things (which is what we wanted and what we loved). It was also a time for us to see a couple of friends from prior duty locations, we had one living in the area and the other (my best friend from NY) who was in town visiting her own family. It meant a great reuniting for the kids and adults alike. So, I’ll share the couple things we did and the history we learned, but it won’t’ be as long as my normal travel posts are (and maybe that’s a good thing!). 

The main tourist attraction we visited in Corpus Christi was the USS Lexington. Where do I begin?

The USS Lexington is a carrier ship that was commissioned in 1943. She was the oldest working carrier when she was decommissioned in 1991. Originally named USS Cabot she was renamed upon being commissioned when the original carrier carrying the name USS Lexington was sunk. The USS Lexington joined the ships at Pearl Harbor as part of the Central Pacific Force. During World War II the Lexington served 21 months in combat, serving in every major operation in the Pacific Theater. Manned by 3,000 members during World War II (1550 Men and Women regularly), they destroyed 372 airborne enemy aircraft, 475 grounded aircraft, destroyed 300,000 tons of enemy cargo, and damaged 600,000 tons more AND downed 15 planes. During World War II she earned the nickname “The Blue Ghost” as she continued to return to the fight after being reported sunk. After World War II the Lexington was decommissioned, then reactivated to San Diego to assist with the tensions with Cuba, Laos, and Formosa. She then sailed to Pensacola and was designated a Naby Training Carrier. The USS Lexington is now permanently housed at Corpus Christi and is open for tours and various events. 

Some fun facts for you about the carrier. The USS Lexington was the first aircraft carrier to allow women to serve onboard. The Lexington served as a filming location for Midway in 1975, AND for the 2001 movie Pearl Harbor where she was altered to play a Japanese Carrier and the USS Hornet (which they do have a display for). Ghost Hunters filmed an episode aboard the Lexington, as did Ghost Lab. 

It was a really fun way to spend a morning- we were able to climb into several spots, see a lot of the ship (I was surprised at how much access we had), and the collection of planes and helicopters was really cool. All in all, I would recommend at least visiting one or two of the Naval Ship Museums. They are really cool and give a good insight into what life would be like on the ship. 

The other thing we did while in Corpus Christi was head down to the beach for a long walk along the water. The beaches in Corpus are really nice and easily accessible and you are able to see a high amount of wildlife. While in Corpus we were able to see the normal hermit crabs and jellyfish (keep a wide birth- even on shore), but we also got to see dolphins (a mom teaching her baby!), and sea turtles. 

That was really it for tourist-y things we did! The majority of our time was spent soaking up some much needed family time. 

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A Cuppa Cosy Travels – San Antonio, TX

In December we did a holiday trip where we traveled to San Antonio, Corpus Christi, and Houston TX. Since we are currently living in the western part (very western part) of Texas, we figured we could head into the state to see some sights. We don’t plan on being back in the state, so we wanted to see some highlights (for us at least). 

***I also want to note that we did a much slower trip this time, we didn’t cram a bunch in, and we didn’t see as much as we could have. However, this trip was exactly what we needed it to be.***

So, we started our trip in San Antonio, TX. San Antonio is a city that has so much history but feels incredibly modern. The main historical attraction (aside from the Missions), is The Alamo, which is located right tin the center of the city. You’ve got an incredibly preserved Mission, with hotels, restaurants, and stadiums right around it. I will say, this makes it harder to connect to the history and life at the time, especially for the kids. We enjoyed our time there and learned a lot, but it is something to note. 

We started our time in San Antonio with the Alamo. If you don’t know the history of The Alamo, I’ll try and give a rough rundown, but you will definitely know the words “Remember the Alamo”. The Alamo was initially a religious outpost (a Mission) for the Spanish Empire. During this time, it was the Mission San Antonio de Valero dating back to 1724. In 1793 the Catholics relinquished the Mission to become a Pueblo. During this time there were larger regional threats and battles being fought. This led to the Pueblo becoming a defensive fortress in 1803 occupied by the Spanish Army. In the background of these local transitions, Mexico was trying to become independent, Texas was finding its’ own identity, and there was broader conflict with French Louisiana and America. All of this creates a violent, turbulent backdrop for the San Antonio (and broader) region. 

Now on to the actual Battle of the Alamo in 1836. The Battle of the Alamo was a part of the Texas Revolution where Texas became free of Mexico, transformed into Texas (at the time a Self-Governing Republic). Prior to the battle Texas was under Mexican control and while Mexico struggled, all seemed well until 1833. Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna was elected President, and he was a…turbulent leader to say the least. He abolished the constitution (which gave way to a Civil War), changed immigrant laws, and the autonomy that Texas had to rule their own. 

Now, San Antonio was important as it was located on the main roads leading into Texas for supply lines and communications. Who holds this spot, holds all the keys in essence. 

The first battle of the Texas Revolution was actually the Battle of Gonzalez, which takes place in October 1835, when the Mexican Army was sent to recover a cannon. They were not successful in this task; in fact, the Mexican Army was very much outnumbered and retreated after being fired upon by the Texas Army. At this time, the Alamo and San Antonio is being held by the Mexican Army and they are taking refuge there (without said cannon). 

The Texan Army decided to follow the Mexican Army on their retreat and met up with an army of Texan Volunteers (this is where James Bowie, David Crockett and co come into play) to lay siege to San Antonio. There were several skirmishes of the October and November month, all with a Texas Army victory. The Mexican Army was finally defeated, and the Texas Army took control of The Alamo. They immediately began to fortify the mission and the city. 

Now the retreating Mexican Army soldiers met up with Santa Anna’s Army in February and they laid siege to the Alamo. Initially they tried to parlay, but after no progress, a full siege was laid and Santa Anna declared that “no quarter would be given” (so if they fell, they would all fall). While the Texas Army at The Alamo were incredibly outnumbered, they did not give up. They wrote letters and managed to bring in more men to fight for The Alamo. During the siege on March 2, 1836, Texas declared its independence from Mexico.

The actual Battle of the Alamo occurred shortly after that declaration on March 6 (the 13th day of the siege). The battle only lasted 90 minutes and there were no survivors. After the battle all of the bodies were burned. 

The Texas Revolution ended April 22, 1836, after the Battle of San Jacinto and the famous “Remember the Alamo” battle cry. 

So much for a brief overview of history, right?!

When visiting The Alamo, you have several options. You can go into it and just tour the grounds and mission. However, I would actually recommend doing the audio tour (bring plug in earbuds to avoid holding the thing up to your ear constantly). It gives a little more insight and history as you are walking through and allows you to get the information. There aren’t really any of the “this location” history signs in the grounds, so if you want to get the information, the audio tour is the way to go. We spent a little over half the day wandering through the grounds and museum (make sure when purchasing tickets, it includes the artifact museum). 

While The Alamo was one of the main reasons we went to San Antonio, we did do a couple other things that I can share about. 

First up (because I don’t have much to say on it), we hit up the Legoland Discovery Center. This is located in a massive mall that houses Legoland Center, a Sea Aquarium, and a ropes course. An easy relaxing day that would be great for the kids in your family. While we only did the Legoland Discovery Center, we did go take a look at the other options, and they were great as well. We spent half the day (no joke) at the Legoland Discovery Center. They have two rides, though one was down while we were there, a massive city center Lego build, a climbing/play place, a full creative space with different build and experiment options, and of course a Lego store. We all had so much fun exploring, building, and playing (and shopping).  It was a great option for the kids to get a little break on the trip. 

Secondly, we both walked along the riverwalk and went on a riverboat tour. When it comes to San Antonio, the River Walk is probably just as known as The Alamo. Both are top attractions; both are steeped in history. The first battle of the Texas Revolution was fought over the San Antonio River at the Mission Concepcion (2 miles South of Downtown San Antonio). Originally recorded in 1535 by Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca. Originally named Yanaguana, it was renamed San Antonio de Padua by the first governor of Spanish Texas in honor of Saint Anthony’s Day. The river itself is home to 5 18th century Spanish Missions. The riverwalk now is known as one of the most popular tourists stops in San Antonio- featuring not only the walkway but lined with shops and restaurants. I highly recommend spending a half day just walking the river- preferably in the morning or midday for a bite to eat. Would not recommend heading there in the evening to late night hours as it is PACKED at dinnertime. 

By walking along the River Walk you are able to see bits of San Antonio history- such as Rosita’s Bridge, La Villita (which is a small artists village), and use it as a jumping off point for other downtown attractions (like the churches and government buildings that are stunning). 

Finally, we did visit several of the 18th Century Missions that are still standing and open for visiting. We didn’t get to go inside any of them as we left San Antonio on Christmas Eve and President Biden declared it a federal holiday (so everything was closed), but we did get to walk the grounds of several of them. We did consider stopping on our way back through, but it didn’t work out with our timeline. The Missions were initially created to recruit and convert the local Indigenous groups.

 

We walked the grounds of San Juan and Mission Espada, while mission San Jose is the larger one that was closed due to the holiday. Mission Espada (my personal favorite) was founded in 1690 as San Francisco de los Tejas in Weches, TX and it was the first mission in Texas. It was moved and renamed in 1731 becoming the mission we see today. Mission San Juan was originally founded in 1716 near Cushing, TX as Mission San Jose de los Nazonis and then relocated in 1731 and renamed as Mission San Juan Capistrano. It represents the most dramatic of the change as the mission that the Indigenous people undertook in their becoming citizens of Spain. At this mission in particular, you are able to walk a loop that takes you to the original stretch of the San Antonio River as well as see the historic farm fields (still in use) and the irrigation ditches. Mission San Jose is the largest of all the missions and the one that is restored, fully open and features guided Ranger walks and souvenirs. Mission San Jose was founded in 1720 and moved twice before the location we see it at today. 

Beyond that, I have two food recommendations and that is breakfast at Voodoo Doughnuts and dinner at Iron Cactus. We loved both of these spots and would have gone back multiple times. 

That wraps up our time in San Antonio! A short stop to hit the highlights and give some fun memories for the kids. Our next stop was Corpus Christi, but that was to visit family and we didn’t do many tourist-y things. I might write about it, but it’ll be a shorter post than this one. 

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The Wild Wild West – 2024

We went West- to the Wild Wild West. It was exactly as expected- gunfights in the street, saloons and drinks galore, and an experience to be had! Over Labor Day Weekend we went to Tombstone, AZ and spent the weekend reveling in the 1800’s. We saw 6 gunfights, ate at 2 saloons, and wandered back in time for 48 hours. 

***Quick note- if you do visit Arizona, please remember that they do not do Daylight Savings Time, so your hours will shift no matter where you travel from. We completely forgot about this! ***

We started our weekend in Bisbee- at the Copper Queen Mine. We initially tried to get lunch at Bisbee Breakfast Café (which looks absolutely delicious), but they were packed, and the wait was a little too long for us to make our tour time. It was a definite bummer as all the food options look delicious. It did give us a chance to wander up and down the main street of what was once upon a time Lowell, AZ. A street very much stopped in history- old cars, antique stores, and beyond. 

From there, we just grabbed a snack and headed to Copper Queen Mine for a tour. Copper was initially discovered in Bisbee in the 1820’s by a Lt. Dunn, however production at the mines didn’t begin until 1880. Copper Queen Consolidated Mining Company was a subsidiary of Phelps Dodge Corporation and became the dominant force in the mining of the area. Mining operations continued until 1975 when the mines closed, leading the mayor of Bisbee (Chuck Eads) to develop the idea of the mine tours. The Mine Tour opened to the public in February 1976.

On the tour, you get a vest, hard hat, and light before heading on the train down into the mine. You are walked through the history of mining in the region, the day to day of a miner, the different tools they would use, and finally you are able to see what they are actually looking for (i.e., what Copper looks like in rocks). It was really fun and educational for the boys. We walked away learning something new (this was our second mine tour). 

From there we headed to Tombstone, checking in to our AirBNB, and then headed to Allen St (which is like Main St of Tombstone) with the intention of getting dinner. Now, our AirBNB hosts gave us a heads up, but everything short of food closes at around 5PM. So, if you’re needing anything, wanting to check out any venues, or want to do a little shopping, you’ll need to do it before 5. Not a bad thing, just a warning. I think the only place that stays open “late” is Bird Cage Theatre as they do Ghost Tours a bit later on. 

We stopped for dinner at our first Saloon, Big Nose Kate’s Saloon. This is the exact vibe you’re going for in Tombstone. Everyone is in full costume, they’ve got a performer on stage, an old Wild West vibe to the décor and the ambiance and the food was good! A little history of the saloon and people (because everywhere has history)- Big Nose Kate was potentially the first prostitute in Tombstone AND Doc Holliday’s girlfriend. Prostitution was very much a thing (I think we all know that?!) and it happened to be one of the best ways for “single” women to make a living as “suitable” positions did not pay enough. Now, this saloon was once the location of the Grand Hotel. The Grand Hotel was THE place to be and has a long-storied history. While it was the Grand Hotel, there was an individual called “The Swamper”. Officially he was the janitor and handyman of the hotel, but he also had a penchant for siler and tunneled from his basement room to the entrance of a mine shaft to collect silver. 

After dinner we wandered up and down the street to get our bearings, then headed back to our cabin for the night. 

The next morning, we were up early and ready for a day in the Wild Wild West- and boy it was. After grabbing a quick breakfast at “O.K. Café” which was delicious, and then we headed back to Allen St. Our first stop of the day was getting tickets for the show at the O.K. Corral. You have to purchase tickets day of for one of the three showtimes, you cannot purchase in advance. The first showing was at 11, so after we got tickets at 9 AM, we decided to head over to the Saloon Theatre for their gunfight show. They reenact Billy the Kid’s first shoot out, a shoot-out with Frank Leslie, and then an Earp shoot out. This is an inside show, with very real guns, and they do give hearing protection. We enjoyed this one- it made those western shows feel a bit real-er to everyone. 

From there we went over to the O.K. Corral to watch the “Shootout at the O.K. Corral”- which, the shootout actually occurred behind the corral in an empty lot, but what is history after all. So, this shootout (if you didn’t know the history) is between the Earps/Doc Holliday and the McLaury’s/Clanton’s. The Cowboys (Mclaury’s and Clanton’s) were creating all sorts of trouble- drinking a lot, gambling a lot, shooting off guns where they shouldn’t have been, and the newly deputized Earp Family were not interested in that continuing. There were threats, rivalries, stealing of wives, and it all led to a (very short) shootout between the two rivals. In 30 seconds, 30 shots flew and three died. Tom McLaury, Frank McLaury, and Billy Clanton are all buried in Boothill Cemetery (more on that later). 

Fun fact- the gunfight occurred outside the office of THE photographer of Tombstone (C.S. Fly), however there were no photos as he was busy when the unplanned shootout occurred. 

This was a really fun one to attend- the actors were great, they play off the audience well, and once it is over you can wander through the entire property, which allows you to go through a couple different buildings to picture life in that time. Your ticket also includes a chance to watch the Historama (which we did- I would say if you’re interested then attend, but it isn’t necessary) and tickets to the Epitaph- which was the newspaper of Tombstone (we did this as well- it’s very small and it will take about 10 minutes to see everything within). 

Now we attended during Labor Day Weekend, which meant that they were going all out and there were two performing troupes that were performing gun fights in the streets throughout the weekend, as well as the casket/hanging booth. We watched several gunfights from Arizona Gunfighters, and all four of us were “hung” in the streets of Tombstone. It was an experience, that is for sure. 

We wandered down to the Tombstone Courthouse for a quick walk through. The courthouse was original built in 1882 and was once the offices of the sheriff, recorder, treasurer, courtrooms, jailhouse, and board of supervisors. It was a very active busy building! Now, as you walk through the rooms, you are treated to a history lesson of just about anything you could think of relating to the Wild Wild West- from cattle ranching to gun fights, to Mexican/American skirmishes and more. While this maybe doesn’t have the same amount of sensationalist history as some other locations, it’s still a really neat spot to stop at.  

We did two more things in Tombstone, the first was to visit the history Old Bird Cage Theatre. This was the most famous spot of its time- known as the “wildest, wickedest night spot” in the west.  The name pays homage to the Bird Cage crib compartments that overhang the gambling and dancing areas. These compartments were where the prostitutes would try to solicit the men below (think she’s a bird in a gilded cage)- and they are still in the theatre. In fact, this is the ONLY building in Tombstone that is as it was. This includes bullet holes, gambling tables (the one where the longest poker game in history occurred), the original curtain and painted stage, as well as the piano. When it was open, it was open, never shutting its’ doors, seeing 16 gunfights for a total of 140 bullet holes within the building. It is full of history, and it is basically locked in time. It closed in 1889, and then was boarded up for almost 50 years. Then in 1934 it became A Historic Landmark of the American West and was opened to the public to visit. 

This is a MUST SEE in my opinion, not only because of the history, but also because it is the ONLY historic landmark in its original state. It is a self-guided visit, though you are able to do a family tour, and if haunting/ghost things are your thing, you are able to do a ghost tour (as this is one of the most haunted buildings in the country). 

The final stop we made on our way out of town (ironically enough) was Boothill Graveyard. Originally “The Tombstone Cemetery”, this burial plot dates back to 1878 and was used until 1884. It holds the graves of the cowboys from the shootout (McLaury’s and Clanton’s), the men that were hung after the Bisbee Massacre as well as the man lynched from the same event, two marshals, and Lester Moore (of the no les, no more rhyme if you know it). There are many many more (a total of 265 graves), all for a variety of reasons. When you enter, they will give you a pamphlet that breaks down every grave as well as a reason for death if known. 

And that really tops off our time in Tombstone! We had a really fun time, and the kids were obsessed (and they have shockingly good reflexes). 

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A Weekend in The Adirondacks – 2022

It is that time of year again- the time when the world reminds us just how stunning mother nature can be. That’s right, it’s Autumn foliage time and this year really solidified to me that nowhere truly does it like The Adirondacks. Seriously- it’s got everything, the foliage, the small towns, the outdoor activities, but also plenty to do if you’re not into that- EVERYTHING. Last year we rv’d to Lake Placid/Whiteface Mountain, and we would have RV’d to this year’s location, but our schedules just didn’t really permit that to happen. So, instead we took two nights to go the North Creek/Gore Mountain area. To compare a bit between the two (you can read about our Lake Placid trip HERE) …

Geographically Lake Placid is in the more Northeastern section of the Adirondacks, whereas North Creek/Gore Mountain is in the Southeastern section. We live on the middle Western section of The Adirondacks- just outside of the region. 

In terms of peak foliage, we were in the region for the Peak Colors of the season this year. Peak can last anywhere from a day to a week- there are so many factors at play. Last year we missed the full-on peak by maybe a few days. Once the leaves start to fall, they all tend to come down fairly fast. Last year was a much rainier season, so they fell earlier, whereas this year it’s been a bit dryer, they’ve stayed a bit longer, even if they started popping color earlier. 

I will say, I still think RV’ing or renting a small cabin in a wooded spot or along the lakes is the way to go. You can fully immerse in all the Autumnal Glory that way in a way that staying in a hotel doesn’t quite provide. 

Now, on to our actually trip. Like I said, this year we headed to the Gore Mountain/North Creek area. We really booked this location to go rail biking with Revolution Rail. This is something I’ve wanted to do since finding out we were going to be living in Upstate NY. They’ve got fantastic locations out here, and the rides are great. You can find their website HERE. However, we booked an afternoon ride on Saturday, so we had all Saturday morning to enjoy the area.

Saturday morning my husband decided to surprise us with a gondola ride and morning at Gore Mountain. Gore Mountain is home to New York’s largest ski resort. It boasts 4 Unique Peaks with a large, varied number of trails down the mountains. Dating back to 1934 (with development in 1964) and the only still operating Gondola in New York State, Gore Mountain is constantly updating, upgrading, and adjusting both its trails and the operating systems and lodges to meet the future. And- if you’re truly an expert skier, Gore Mountain has a trail that is a 70% pitch, one of the steepest in the East.  

We took a lift up to the top of one of the peaks to take in the beauty of Autumn in The Adirondacks. Honestly, I think the best time to see the actual sea of colors is while you are on the lift (I thought this with Whiteface too- the drive up is where you’ll get the best opportunity to capture that “sea” effect), but the view from the top is pretty incredible too. Plus, there was snow on the top! So, we got to experience that as well! If you’re interested, most of the ski mountains offer both mountain biking and hiking throughout the summer and fall season, something to keep in mind!

While we were at Gore Mountain, they were having their Harvest Festival, so we were able to enjoy live music, vendors from a wide variety of businesses, and some fun games. It made for a fun kick off morning. 

From there we headed down to North Creek NY for the event that we really came to this area for- Rail Biking along the Hudson River. When I had first learned that we were getting stationed in Upstate NY (after I got over all the feelings of leaving Germany) I knew that I wanted to go rail biking. It really just seemed like a fun and unique experience. Now, there are a couple different companies and locations for rail biking, but we decided to go with Revolution Rail. They offered a rail biking experience right in the “heart” of The Adirondacks and would give us a new way to experience the autumn foliage. I recognize that this is one of those things that is…very “us” as a family, but we actually really loved it. 

So, Revolution Rail was started in 2016 in North Creek NY. They launched in 2017 with 6 railbikes. The general idea is to turn the unused old railroad tracks into an opportunity. The railbike is either two or four seats and sits comfortably on the track. The ride itself is actually relatively easy- more comfortable than biking (because you’re on an actual seat) and any time it gets difficult- which is none- all you have to do is marvel at the world around you and it gets easy again. The railbikes are able to accommodate just about anyone- we had a wide variety of ages and skill level (you’re in a group of 10-20 bikes) and they are able to allow babies in strapped on carriers (like an ergo or bjorn). Revolution Rail is not only in New York, they offer trails in Colorado and New Jersey (and I think I might have seen one other location coming soon).  Both the Colorado and New York locations offer special combined experiences- usually involving the rail biking and a water experience. 

We did the South River Run ride which was a little over 2 hours (I would say about 2.5). We rode about 3.5 miles, stopped for a break and history chat, then biked the 3.5 miles back. It was incredibly beautiful and an experience that I honestly would repeat again and again. The boys weren’t able to pedal (they could barely reach- so we told them to relax and enjoy the ride) and Robert and I didn’t have any issues leisurely pedaling. I just can’t say enough fun good things about this little adventure, I highly recommend it. 

From there we wandered through the main street of North Creek, checking out the glassblowing- super cool- and other little shops. We stopped for dinner and headed back to the motel for the evening. 

The next morning, we packed up and headed out to make our way back home. We stopped at one more place though before reaching our home- The Adirondack Experience. The Adirondack Experience is a museum spread across a tract of land that walks visitors through the history, the use, and the relationship between the people and the wilderness of the Adirondacks. The land was originally purchased in 1867 by a Connecticut Farmer who used the land for a logging and lumbering operations. When The Adirondacks started to become a popular tourist spot, Tyler Merwin (the son of Miles Merwin who originally purchased the land) allowed for overnight guests. In 1880 he built a hotel on the location with the hotel growing to house 100 guests in 1907. While visiting the Experience, you are actually able to see and walk in the Log Hotel, originally of 1876 and named on the National Register of Historic Places. The Blue Mountain House continued in operations until the twentieth century- though it switched owners. In 1948 the hotels new owner, William Wessels, teamed up with Harold K Hochschild, a business exec and amateur historian, to form the Adirondack Historical Association. The original Adirondack Museum opened in August 1957 with the goal of showing the relationship between humans and the wilderness of the Adirondacks. The Experience features not only several buildings of exhibits, but also a steamboat, a railroad engine and passenger car, a stagecoach, canoe, and several other horse drawn vehicles. 

So, we actually spent a good 3-4 hours just exploring the grounds and learning all about the Adirondack region as a whole. The experience is very self-guided, with tour guides within exhibits from time to time. We started with the Boats & boating and learned about the evolution of the boating industry as it related to the Adirondacks (boats used to be the only way to get around!). We wandered over to the kids cabin and schoolhouse, where the boys got to experience not only what the schoolhouse offered, but also the various responsibilities kids had back in the early 1900’s. We wandered through Sunset Cottage, and the exterior of Log Hotel, which was closed at the time, as well as the Artist’s Cottage. The Life in the Adirondacks talked a lot about how man tried to work with the land, as well as the Indigenous Peoples of the regions. I would say this was one of the more interesting buildings of the group. We stopped at the river pavilion, which is where the steamboat and train are housed, headed up to bull Cottage, which aside from maybe being a bit small for us, is really our dream location. Finally, we stopped at the Work in the Woods, which talks about the logging industry, in both good and bad terms. It was well worth the stop, and they have a good number of hands on and hands off options. 

All in all- Leaf-Stravaganza 2022 was a big success (that’s what I’m calling this moving forward…). I truly don’t know if there is anything out there that can compare to Autumn in Upstate New York- it’s magical. I’m sharing every bit of the excitement and beauty over on Instagram- @acuppacosy, so follow there for the day-to-day beauty (even though we are past peak). 

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A Weekend in A Camper

Over Labor Day weekend we decided it was time to take another camper trip. To be honest, I’ve been kind of itching to get back into a camper, get out into nature, and take some massive steps back from the world. There’s just something about being in a camper, disconnected, in nature that really just works for me. It gives me that much needed “silence the world” feeling. 

Now, last year when we did our camper trip it was in October to the Lake Placid area, and it was glorious- the beauty of Autumn in the Adirondacks is unparalleled and unreal. You can read that HERE. It was our first time in a camper, and we fell in love (if you can’t tell). 

This time we decided to go to another famed region of New York- Letchworth State Park. Known as the “Grand Canyon of the East” it is known to be one of the most “scenically magnificent areas” of the eastern part of the country. It is home to a lot of hiking, horseback riding, white water rafting and kayaking, hot air balloon rides, as well as a variety of lodging right within the park. 

We decided to stay outside of the park, mostly because most of the spots were already reserved when we looked (these spots, both, book up FAST). We chose a KOA campground on the southern end of the park and we’re actually very pleased with it! I know that in some instances KOA’s can get a bit of a bad rep, and sure being as close to neighbors isn’t like…great, but our experiences thus far have been great. We arrived in the afternoon on Friday and spent the first few hours getting settled in, unpacking, letting the kids run free and wild. 

The next morning dawned bright and clear so after breakfast we headed out to Letchworth State Park. Letchworth State Park follows the course of the Genesee River for about 17 miles as the river goes over a total of 3 waterfalls and cuts a gorge through the landscape. It crosses two counties as well as 5 cities. The park dates back to 1859 when William Pryor Letchworth started purchasing the land. He started with the land nearest to the Middle Falls, built his home and then started to look beyond. In the end by 1906 he had 1,000 acre’s that he bequeathed to the state of New York. The park contains three waterfalls, Upper, Middle, and Lower. Each are unique, each are located within the southern section of the park (yes there is a southern/northern line, and it is marked within the park-it is THAT big). Upper Falls has an active Railway arch bridge above it, creating quite the photo backdrop, but also historic as that railroad bridge path dates back to 1875. Middle Falls is the highest of the three waterfalls at 107-foot drop and is just the powerhouse you expect it to be. Lower Falls is exactly what you would think from the name, a lower “calmer” fall over several levels, with a stone bridge just below. There is one smaller, ribbon waterfall, however most of the time you are not able to truly see it. 

My initial thought was to hike the distance between the three waterfalls; HOWEVER, this is a 7-mile hike and is listed as a “moderate” level hike but has a steep incline/decline that we didn’t know about until we overheard some hikers speak about it. We decided at the middle falls that hiking the full way was not feasible with two little kids on an 80 something degree day. This is fine as not only can you drive the entire park, but you are also able to stop at more than enough spots to get out, take in the gorge, the river, and the falls. There are two parking lots for the falls, one located in between upper and middle, and then one close to lower falls. (To be honest- I was also ok with not hiking as most of the hike is above the river, rather than within the gorge.)

I think that the park itself is incredible and definitely worth a visit, and the amenities for camping or staying within the park are great, but if you are looking for river/waterfall/gorge hiking, I would recommend Watkins Glen State Park. Obviously, these are two VERY different parks and I hate to even put the comparison there, but I would definitely say I preferred that one to Letchworth if we are talking about water adjacent hikes/locations. 

We basically spent all day within the state park, as planned, and just decided that when we were done, we would head back to the campsite. The KOA campground had live music both nights right near our site, so we had an enjoyable evening next to the fire. 

We slept in a bit the next morning and it was a bit more overcast than Saturday. We knew there was a possibility of rain later in the day (hence the State Park on Saturday), so we decided to choose things a bit more…low key. We gave the kids an option of two activities, both geared towards their interests (but we would enjoy too). The first was a train ride that would span the countryside, the second being an animal safari. It was a tough decision, but they ultimately chose the animal safari. 

Now, let me say this first- I am always wary of the animal sanctuary/roadside zoo style places. I tend to…avoid or research the practices prior to visiting. I just wanted to share that before getting into this. I think, like anything else, there are good places and bad and it’s up to us to look into each place before we visit. 

So, we decided to spend a couple hours at Hidden Valley Animal Adventure. We opted to do the safari they offered, in their vehicles with a tour guide, rather than our own. We did a more mid-day tour time and our tour guide ended up being one of the animal care takers. So, we not only learned what the park was like, but the specifics in how they care for the animals and how they manage heards, relationships, and the like. Not to mention how they…simply maintain and provide the best for the animals. We were able to see quite a variety of animals, but I never felt like they were animals that were…inappropriate or overly exotic for the location. We did get to feed them which was cool, and the guide was incredible in passing along knowledge and letting us know when to step away. After the safari you are able to walk up to the petting zoo and feed the goats or down to the Koi Pond and feed the fish (or both really). It was a great couple hours.

Thankfully the rain held off until after we got back to camp and didn’t properly start coming down until later in the evening. We started up the fire to try and enjoy one last one, cooked up some dinner, and just relaxed. When it started to rain, the pitter patter created quite the perfect ambiance for us and the live band for the evening were great! 

That really wraps up our weekend. It was a much needed, very relaxed, leisurely weekend unplugged and away. One of my goals in the coming years is to make these Camper trips more than a once-a-year occasion. We really enjoy them and, eventually, want to get a camper of our own. 

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A Cuppa Cosy Summer Holiday 2022 – Kingston, Ontario

I went back and forth as to whether to write this final post on our summer trip. Kingston is incredibly close to where we live, we didn’t do much while we were there (except one really cool tour, which is why I decided to write this) and we were definitely at the end of our…travel excitement. However, I decided to write it to not only share the cool spot we toured, but also just a little insight into what our final day or two was like in Canada- because boy did things happen that made me think. 

As always, let’s start with a little history of the area. 

Kingston was originally named Cataraqui and inhabited by the Five Nations Iroquois (though the Wyandot People – of Huron origins- were the first occupants). The French arrived in 1615 and established Fort Cataraqui in 1673 to serve as a military and trade base. The fort itself was occupied on and off, would be destroyed and rebuilt several times over, until finally the British took possession in 1783. The renamed it Tete-de-Pont Barracks in 1787, then turned over to the Canadian military in 1870. It is still in use today; however, it is now named Fort Frontenac. 

Kingston played a bit of a role in the American Revolutionary War as a home location for Loyalists (those who were loyal to the British Crown and wanted to remain a part of the United Kingdom). In order to make “space” for the Loyalists the British worked with the Mississaugas to purchase land. The Loyalists gave the settlement the name of “King’s Town” – which would eventually turn in to Kingston. 

One of the bigger military times for Kingston was the War of 1812. Kingston became a major military town and engaged in an arms race with the American Fleet stationed in Sackets Harbor. The base of Fort Henry, later known at Point Henry, was built to help protect the Canadian Fleet and garrisoned until 1871. It’s now a World Heritage Site. 

Once incorporated as a town, it held the largest population in Upper Canada until the 1840’s (it became a city in 1846). From what I can see- Kingston is really known in terms of cultural hot spots. They host several film festivals, music festivals, writer retreats, as well as Busker events (we’ll get in to that last one). A lot of musician and actors name Kingston as their birthplace, most notable being Dan Aykroyd (there are many more musicians that I could name as well). A final notable fact, the first high school in the province was established in Kingston in 1792 by a Loyalist! 

I’ve been to Kingston now twice, the first being a fun girlie day out where we wandered the streets of downtown, stopped in a local independent bookstore (spent some money…), and grabbed lunch at a great Tex-Mex spot, Lone Star Grill. The second time was this trip with both boys and my husband. 

We headed to Kingston from Toronto on the day where half the nation of Canada was crippled by a software glitch. The communication servers for about half of the country simply went down. This was horrifying on so many levels- people weren’t able to work, weren’t able to pay for products (it affected the banking lines, so no debit or electronic means of payments, BUT they could accept credit cards, not debit as credit, but actual credit cards), but people were not able to communicate via phones, the hospitals were impacted, emergency services. It really crippled that portion of the country for the entire day- I believe it started sometime in the wee hours of the morning and didn’t get fully restored until well past midnight. Thankfully it did get restored and everything returned to “normal”, but it did make you think…about a) how reliant we are on technology, and b) just how…dominating our technology/processing world is by very few companies that so much went down. 

Once we arrived in Kingston and we immediately went off to our single scheduled event- a tour of the Kingston Penitentiary. Kingston Penitentiary was a maximum-security prison that has only recently closed in 2013- actually at the time of closing it was one of the oldest prisons in continuous use in the world. Originally opened in 1835 as a provincial penitentiary, it was one of nine prisons in the area. The building site was selected due mostly to the ready access to water and abundant fine limestone. It first housed six inmates, though it could hold 564 inmates total by the time it closed (this does not include the treatment center within the prison I don’t believe). Across the street to the north is the Kingston Prison for Women which operated from 1934-2000 to allow for more space- women had previously simply been segregated in the main facility. 

This penitentiary has seen two riots, one in 1954 and another in 1971. In 1954 there was a two-hour riot (which at that point was the worst in history) involving almost 900 inmates. A breakout was attempted coinciding with the riot, however, was not successful. This particular riot started in the exercise yard, led to several fires in different buildings, 50 ringleaders going to solitary confinement, $2 million in damages, and the involvement of both the Canadian Army and the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. The second riot was much worse. 

In 1971 there was a four-day riot within the prison that led to two inmates dying, six guards being held hostage, and much of the prison destroyed. The riot was instigated by concerns about future conditions at a separate prison transfer, lack of work/recreational time and other prisoner issues. Once the riot was quelled, an investigation was opened, and it found that the prisoners were not wrong in their complaints. A number of issues were noted, least of which being overcrowding and shortage of staff, but also prisoners who did not require maximum security, a lack of channels to deal with prisoner complaints and requests, as well as aged physical facilities. This riot led to committees being form and new jobs being created to help deal with these complaints and issues within the prison. 

There have been three escapes recorded from this maximum-security prison: 1923, 1947, and 1999. The first was Norman “Red” Ryan, who was an Irish Catholic Gangster. He escaped with several other inmates in September 1923 by setting a fire as a distraction, going over the wall, and stealing a car. However, he was caught again in Minnesota and brought back. Once back in prison he became a “model prisoner” and the poster child for prison/parole reform. He was released, went on to denounce his prior criminal activities and be a model citizen in public…all while going on an armed robbery spree. During one of these armed robberies the little gang he had formed ended up in a shootout of sorts. While Norman continued to present himself as the model citizen, even offering to help police and detectives figure out what happened, he was found out a few months later and died in a shootout with police at a liquor store. The second escape was fairly straightforward, 3 inmates went over the wall, 2 came back, 1 was never found. 

The third escape was by Ty Conn in 1999. Ty Conn was the first to evade capture for weeks and weeks since the last “successful” escape in 1958 (this is after 26+ attempts by inmates since 1836). Abandoned by both his parents, put up for adoption by his maternal grandparents he was adopted by a psychiatrist and his, alleged/described, mentally unstable wife. That only lasted about eight years before he was “returned” and placed in and out of foster and group homes, and youth detention facilities. As a young child in his adoptive family, he started stealing – first food then cars in his teenage years. By the time of his death, he was only “legally at large” (free) for 69 days (this is from age 13-death). After notifying prison guards at Millhaven Prison that several inmates were planning to escape, he was placed in protective custody and transferred to Kingston Penitentiary. His own escape utilized not only a rope ladder and grappling hook (that he made himself), but also cayenne pepper to throw the scent off to the dogs. He was found two weeks later in Toronto where he committed suicide, rather than go back to prison. 

I have to interject my personal opinion here for a moment because in listening to the tour guide speak about Ty Conn and the brief history I’ve learned about him- he really is one of those…cases for prison reform and slip through the crack’s instances. There is a book currently out by Theresa Burke and Linden MacIntyre, both have met and had interaction with Ty Conn, titled Who Killed Ty Conn. Together they paint a different picture and one that is worth understanding and knowing. It’s a book that I’ve added to my list to read at some point. 

From 1971-1981 Kingston Penitentiary also served as the Regions Reception Center. Every inmate in the prison system would come to Kingston Penitentiary first. It also held a Regional Treatment Centre within the prison which allowed up to 120 inmates who were in recovery. In 1990 Kingston Penitentiary was designated a National Historic Site and it was officially closed on September 30, 2013. A month or so later it was opened for tours- all of which are given by former guards and employees of the prison. 

 Kingston Penitentiary has seen it all and boy, if walls could talk. The tour was, quite honestly, incredible. Not only do you get to see how the prison changed throughout the long years it was used, but you also get to hear real experiences from employees and guards. It gives you a real insight in to not only these prisoners live within the prison, but also insight in to how the prison structure works/operates/could improve. The tour guides were not able to talk about the actual prisoners as it’s against Canadian privacy laws, but a quick search gives you an idea of some of the infamous prisoners housed in those walls. 

We stopped for a bite to eat after the tour (and a gas up- thankfully we found a station that was able to take credit cards!) at Montana’s BBQ & Bar- which was delicious and supplied quite the Long Island Iced Tea ;). 

The next morning, we headed more towards downtown to walk along the river and the store fronts. We were pleasantly greeted by a Busker Festival. If you don’t know, a busker is a street performer. So, the folks that you walk past that are performing on sidewalks or subway stations for donations and your enjoyment? Buskers. And Kingston had an entire weekend full of entertainment lined up. The streets were blocked off to allow several performers, with a good distance between, there was a stage set up at the water, as well as food, face paint, and a sidewalk chalk competition. 

Coinciding with that event, it was also the weekend of a boat race, so while we were walking along the water, we were treated with the site of these souped-up boats, with wonderful sounding engines pull in to dock for lunch. 

We did just a little walking and then, finally, headed back across the border to the states and back home. And that wraps up our Summer Holiday (finally!). Which was your favorite to hear about? NIAGARA, DETROIT, UPPER PENINSULA, SUDBURY, TORONTO, or Kingston? Have you added any to your to visit list? And if you haven’t- you HAVE to add Mackinac Island/Upper Peninsula straight away. Let me know!

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A Cuppa Cosy Summer Holiday 2022 – Toronto, Ontario

Ok, another preface to another travel blog post…actually two. So, first up, our time in Toronto was not utilized very well. We got late starts every morning we were there, and we didn’t really do any planning for our time there. What I’m going to do is talk about what we actually did, and then share a couple of the spots that I wish that we had gone to. 

A second preface regarding the Covid crossing. A basic reiteration as to what I said in my first post (and apologies for not including it in my Sudbury post- I forgot and it worked out as that post went a lot longer than I thought it would). These may or may not be up to date when you are reading this post (as they still change day to day), so I would recommend checking the Canada travel site HERE for the most up to date information. To enter Canada as an adult you must be fully vaccinated and fill out the Arrive CAN app on the phone (you can do this via we browser and print the certificate as well if that is easier for you, I believe). Kids aged 5 & up are required to be vaccinated unless they are traveling with fully vaccinated adults. For the vast majority of Ontario, we were not required to wear masks.

So, on to Toronto…

Toronto is the most populous city in Canada, the fourth most populous in the North America Region (it’s also the fastest growing city, and second fastest growing metro region in the North America’s). It’s location at the entrance of a route to the NW (one of the oldest there is) has been inhabited and used since the 1600’s by the Huron, Iroquois, and Ojibwe. In the 1660’s the Iroquois created two towns, but then they left the area after the Beaver Wars. In 1701 the Mississaugas took over the region and were there until 1750 when the French established Fort Rouille (they were still in the region, but the French started to cultivate the region). Once the Seven Years War ended the French left and the region became part of British Quebec. The American Revolution saw an influx in Loyalists escaping America and in 1787 Toronto officially became a British Territory with the Toronto Purchase. Toronto wasn’t always known as Toronto, in fact in 1793 it was the Town of York, and it became the capital of Upper Canada the same year. When slavery was banned in 1834, the newly renamed city of Toronto, became a refuge for former slaves and all people of color. Toronto has had two “Great Fires”, the Cathedral fire in 1849 which destroyed most of the Market district as well as St. James Cathedral, and the Great Fire in 1902 which destroyed more than 100 buildings and killed one person. A final fun fact for you: Toronto was once the largest alcohol distribution center- it specialized in spirits, and in the 1860’s Gooderham and Worts Distillery was the largest whisky factory in the world. 

The first night in Toronto we simply did a little walking, did a little eating, and settled into our hotel. We stayed in the Chelsea Hotel (the largest in Canada), and it was both a good hotel as well as a good local spot. We started at Old City Hall and Nathan Phillips Square, then over to Toronto Eaton Centre, which is a massive, covered shopping mall. We then walked down to Yonge- Dundas Square, which is similar (but a bit smaller) to Times Square. Opened in 2002 it is central to Downtown Yonge’s entertainment and shopping. 

The next morning, we set out for our first “must see” of Toronto, the Hockey Hall of Fame.

The Hockey Hall of Fame is credited to James T. Sutherland who was involved in the sport. He believed the Hall of Fame should be located in Kingston as he saw that as the birthplace of Hockey. However, there were quite a few funding issues trying to create a permanent building (even after inductions began in 1945), and, in 1961, it was moved to Toronto. Initially the Hockey Hall of Fame shared space with the Canadian Sports Hall of Fame, but in 1986 they ran out of space and in 1993 they moved to the current location inside Brookfield Place/Bank of Montreal Building. Within the museum you’ll find not only history pieces, trophies and rings, team memorabilia, and the like, but also an entire interactive zone where you can practice shooting pucks against a goalie, being a goalie, as well as learn how television broadcasting works. It was quite a way to spend the morning and we loved getting this deep dive into Hockey History. 

From there we wandered over to St. Lawrence Market. In the early 1800’s the governor recognized that the town needed to have a central market location, with specific dates and times that it would be operational. And so, St. Lawrence Market was opened. This heart of the town was not only a market, but also served as an auction space, a place of public punishment, and for a time, was the seat of the city council. A temporary structure was first introduced in 1814, with a permanent structure built in 1820. This led to a long road of construction, remodeling, destruction (it went down during the Cathedral Fire), and re building. The present St. Lawrence Market South Building dates back to 1845 (rebuilt in 1850 and remodeled in 1972). Originally there was two buildings, however the North building was demolished in 2015. It is full of just about any vendor you could think of, from food, to jewelry, stationary, clothes and beyond. It is a hectic, but fun stop to see. We wandered up and down the aisles of two floors and admired all the goodies being sold.  

From the market we wandered over to the “old district” which didn’t have much that we could see- we actually got a little bit confused over the whole thing. We did see Toronto’s First Post Office, the De La Salle Institute, and St. Andrew’s Church. We ended our day on the docks, watching the water.

The next morning, we headed out once again, this time over to Allan Gardens Conservatory. This was a stop mostly for me, as I wanted to see all the plants. The area dates back to 1858 when George Allan donated a small plot of land to the Horticultural Society. The city then approached him to purchase the surrounding land to expand, which George agreed to as long as they kept it publicly accessible free of charge. It originally opened in 1879 before a fire damaged it in 1902. The present gardens opened in 1910 with the domed Palm House, which were quickly added to in both the 1920’s as well as late 1950. It’s not large, and to be honest not entirely necessary to see, but it was nice to pop in to somewhere to be surrounded by plants for an hour. The boys stopped and played at the nearby playground for a little bit while we tried to figure out what else we wanted to do. At this point we only had half a day left in Toronto, which cut out a lot of things that we wanted to do (like I said- we didn’t plan this stop well at all). 

We decided to head over to Ripley’s Aquarium as the boys have never been to one and it would be a fun stop for everyone that was also nearby. The Aquarium is really known for its Sharks and Sting Rays (in my opinion), and they are also the most active of all the fish. We were able to see not only those, but also a very active octopus, sea turtles, and jelly fish. It was a decent stop and a good way to cool off. 

From there we headed across the street to the Roundhouse Park & Toronto Railway Museum. I’ll be honest…I don’t think this is really worth the stop, even if your kids are massively into trains. The roundhouse park is really cool, first built in 1929 and the last in downtown Toronto, it’s a 32-stall house featuring, at that time, the most modern of technology. It closed operations in 1982 and became a Canadian National Historic Site in 1990. The museum opened in 2010 and features quite a lot of history on the Canadian Pacific Railway, artifacts from bygone times, as well as the ability to drive a simulated train. The boys liked to drive the simulation, but beyond that they didn’t care about any of the rest of it. You are able to see all the 10 train cars featured in the museum on the outside (without going into the museum) as well as take the mini railway. I don’t normally say that a museum isn’t worth going to because I believe in history, in museums, and in learning about the past, but this is one that I don’t think you need to go to. 

And that really wraps up our time in Toronto…

Now, some of the things I actually wished we did were:

Spend a day on Toronto Islands. The Toronto Islands consist of 15 small islands just south of the mainland. You are able to take a boat ferry from Toronto over to the Island Park and, like Mackinac Island, the Islands are car-free. We could have biked through Toronto Island Park, the Centreville Amusement Park, as well as walked and relax on the beach. We actually thought about maybe going for half the day but didn’t think it wise to try and beat the rush at the amusement park and get back to the mainland. I didn’t want to be rushed. 

We thought about going over to Casa Loma, however it was a bit out of the way of the other ideas we had and to take a tour within the castle was a bit pricey. It’s one of those- we saw so many real, old, historic castles in Europe that we haven’t found one here in North America that “measures up” to what we’ve come to expect (yes, I really said that and cringed every word through). I do think it still would have been nice to experience though. 

And, finally, I think that going to the Toronto Botanical Gardens would have been nice. I would have probably preferred them to the Allen Garden Conservatory, but it just didn’t fit in to our schedule or route in any way. 

I do think the Hockey Hall of Fame and St. Lawrence Market are must visits during your time in Toronto. I would say most of the rest, if you walk past or through on a route is fine, but not necessarily worth going out of your way to see. 

So, there you have it. Our 3 nights in Toronto. Up next is our final stop on our Summer Holiday…

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A Cuppa Cosy Summer Holiday 2022 – Sudbury, Ontario

The next stop on our trip was a bit of an “place to stop on the way” kind of stop, but we were pleasantly surprised with the city of Sudbury. It has a lot of history, a lot of mining history, it was actually such a good spot to stay for a night or two. We learned so much not only about the city itself, but actually about mining, its history and its effects on our world, as well as what we can do to protect it. Whew, we might go a little deep in this post, but this city is such a…surprise.  

Quickly before we get too deep into the Sudbury history and stop, we did make a short stop at Onaping Falls.

So, the thought is that about 1.85 billion years ago a meteorite hit Earth and this crater, that has since been filled with all sorts of debris and formed and re shaped by nature, is where the A.Y. Jackson Lookout and Onaping Falls is. Sudbury City Center lies at the south, this lookout at the north. We started at the Lookout with a view of the Onaping River and High Falls- a drop of 46 meters of several falls. From there we hiked down through the rocky terrain (which I somehow did in my Birkenstocks- possible but not recommended) and up over to the bridge. The bridge is right on the rim of the crater and offers views of the river and falls. It was a great stop and a way to stretch our legs all while being right in the heart of both outside the planet and the nature of earth. 

From there we headed into Sudbury. So, a little history…

Similar to our previous stop in the region, Sudbury was initially inhabited by the Ojibwe of Algonquin People some 9,000 years ago. However, in 1850 they struck a deal with the British Crown (the Robinson Huron Treaty) that they would share the region with the Crown if they were paid a tax. The first French Jesuits established the Saint-Anne-des-Pins- coincidentally the patron Saint of minors. A little foreshadowing for the area possibly. 

During the excavation and paving for the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1883 high concentrations of nickel-copper ore were found in the rock that formed Murray Mine. Nickel-Sulphide Ore was also located in the region. This led to a boon of workers and opportunity both in the mines, but also for railway workers trying to establish and run the railway. Thomas Edison (visiting as a prospector) found an ore body in Falconbridge. Through this boon to the region, two companies emerged, Inco (1902) and Falconbridge (1928). They went on to become two of the largest employers of the region as well as two of the world’s leading producers of Nickel. 

Because the region was so rich, they were able to bounce back from the Great Depression much quicker than many other places in the world- in fact, the problems that they dealt with during the Great Depression ended up being a lack of infrastructure to meet the rapid growth of the city and industry. The Frood Mines produced 40% of all the nickel in Allied artillery production, as well as was a main supplier to the U.S. during the Cold War. It’s hard to make clear just what the impact of these mines were on the region- at one point Sudbury was the wealthiest and fastest growing city in the country. 

However, for all the wealth and good economic value the mines brought to Sudbury, they also completely destroyed the green life in the city. The slag heaps, open coke beds, and various logging caused almost all the natural plants to die. Not only that, but they experienced the left-over rocky outcroppings turn charcoal black and acid rain. An environmental crisis caused by the mines. 

Not to catastrophize, because this story has a “happy” ending in that the once the Inco Superstack was built (in 1972 to help disperse the the sulphuric acid further distances to cut down on the acid rain) they were able to bring in a team of environmentalists and ecologists to help find solutions. They started in the early 1970’s by putting lime on the charred soil, laying wild grass seed, and planting trees (9.2 million planted as of 2010). With that initial push completed, they went to work on the slag heaps- rehabilitating them with biosolids (basically compost), as well as grass seed and trees. In fact, we learned that the mines are the perfect greenhouses- but more on that a bit later. The city of Sudbury has actually been recognized by the United Nations for its regreening and improved mining practices. They have a long way to go though, there are still 74,000 acres of land still to be touched by rehabilitation. 

In 1978 there was a strike at Inco over production and employment cutbacks. This strike completely shuttered Sudbury’s economy and since then they’ve been trying to diversify the local economy…which is where we get into what we did in the city. 

One quick fun fact before we go, quite a bit of the famous Canadians come from Sudbury- like Alex Trebeck! Sudbury has also produced something like 81 National Hockey League players- the largest of any European City, and several NHL Hall of Famers. 

So, first off, we visited Dynamic Earth and the Big Nickel. Well…technically first we visited Bay Used Books, but I don’t think I really need to go into details on that- if you’re in the area give them a visit! 

Dynamic Earth is an Earth Sciences Museum opened in 2003 that focuses heavily on the geology and mining activities of the region. Not only were we able to tour an underground model mine that showed us the different forms mining took over the years (and it’s gone through A LOT of changes), but we were also able to learn about how the local city and mines are trying to repair the damage done to the environment and nature of the region. We learned about how a mine is actually the perfect greenhouse (with some light and such) for plants as it stays the same temperature year-round. So, the mines use unused tunnels as greenhouses in an effort to grow the number of trees to rehabilitate various parts of the grounds. Once you finish with the tour of the mine (which is an optional addition to the museum that I would recommend), you are able to walk through a short video presentation that goes through what happens after the rock is mined. This shows how they manipulate the rocks and get the nickel and other metals out and then, further, what those metals are used for. A very kid friendly, but good for adults too, style video. Within the museum you are also able to use the tools that would be available to miners, both for kids and adults. For the kids there is a soft play style playground that has everything an old mine would have, the carts, the belt up and down, as well as a variety of tools and “rocks”. The adults are able to manipulate an actual drill located deep within the model mine. You are also able to pan for gold, explore and learn about all sorts of different kinds of rocks and stones in the exhibits. One final piece of importance about Dynamic Earth- it was the first museum in Canadian history where a private enterprise and public education collaborated to provide on-site training. 

Inside the museum was easily my favorite part and I really enjoyed learning about mining, where it started, and what companies are realizing is harmful, but I couldn’t deny that the statue outside is one of the biggest draws to the area…The Big Nickel. 

The Big Nickel, a 9-meter replica of the 1951 Canadian Nickel, is a world-renowned landmark that turned Sudbury in to a tourist stop. The idea came from Ted Szilva when the city was soliciting for ideas to celebrate the Canadian Centennial. The city, of course, did not like his idea, but he persisted. His full idea was to have the nickel, a mining center, and an underground mind. He faced quite a bit of back and forth (and opposition from the city), but finally opened the Big Nickel for visitors in 1964. He picked the 1951 nickel for three reasons: commemorate the 200th anniversary of isolating nickel into a metal, show where Sudbury’s wealth came from, and to honor the mine workers of the region. His dream didn’t stop there as he had Maclsaac Mining and Tunneling Co build the very same mine we toured in 1965 (they then expanded it in 1969). 

His final dream was to form the Sudbury Science Centre – later known as Science North- though the city initially opposed that too as it was proposed to be a private enterprise. However, much like the Big Nickel, after some time and some fierce determination, he succeeded and now known as, Science North came to be. 

Science North is Northern Ontario’s most popular tourist attraction- an interactive science museum. And it deserves every bit of that hype as it is such a cool spot to spend some time. In fact, you could easily spend a whole day just within the complex. The complex consists of two buildings connected by an underground tunnel sitting on a geographic fault. The buildings were not initially built on this fault; however, it was discovered when they were building. The first portion features an IMAX theatre and planetarium, as well as a boat tour and board walk. The second building is the museum itself which consist of a wide variety of exhibits from the natural region of the area to more STEM related exhibits. Our favorites were easily the insect pavilion where you were able to see different varieties of insects with far too many legs (belaugh), the Animals of Lakes & Rivers, as well as Northern Forests which featured rehabilitated animals like a porcupine, turtles, snakes, and a beaver. We also highly enjoyed the BodyZone, which dealt with the body and all of its’ functions and wonders, as well as the Space Place which had a “fly your own plane” exhibit, as well as a mechanical arm where you could practice your grabbing skills. 

I think if you are going to these two places, start early early at Dynamic Earth and plan on spending ¾ of your day at Science North. Once we finished at both, we walked along the Boardwalk for a little way before getting dinner and heading to the hotel for a swim and bed. 

Which wraps up our time in Sudbury. As I already mentioned- this city was a surprise to both of us. We knew there were things to do, but we didn’t know how rich the history was of the city and how big a role Mining played.

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